Pearl Street Wine Market and Cafe

By Beth Schreibman Gehring

One of the best parts about being a member of the Les Dames d'Escoffier Cleveland Chapter is that we hold our business meetings in some truly extraordinary locations. Last night's gathering was no exception, as we had the pleasure of experiencing the delightful Pearl Street Wine Market and Cafe.

 

With Karen Small of the renowned Flying Fig and Jillian Davis of Toast behind it, my expectations for the small plates were high, and they certainly did not disappoint. Each bite was a burst of flavor, showcasing their culinary expertise and dedication to quality ingredients.

 

But what truly caught me off guard was their exceptional selection of natural and low intervention wines. These elusive gems of the wine world which I tirelessly seek out, have found their home at Pearl Street Wine Market. Unlike many establishments that offer a token selection, Pearl Street has made these wines their raison d'être. From the moment you step through their doors, it becomes abundantly clear that their passion lies in showcasing the very best of these unique and sought-after wines.

 

Pearl Street Wine Market has truly outdone themselves, surpassing any other wine haven I've encountered, even in the bustling streets of New York, and here's the best part: they have a state-of-the-art Cruvinet storage and dispensing system. This ingenious technology allows them to offer tastings and glass pours of wines that are typically only available by the bottle. Talk about a wine lover's dream come true!

 

However, If you're in the mood for a bottle, fear not! Pearl Street Wine Market boasts an extensive collection of hundreds of natural and low intervention wines that can be enjoyed right there on the premises, all for a small corkage fee. So, whether you're a connoisseur or simply looking to explore the mysterious world of natural wine, this place has got you covered.

 

One of the greatest compliments I can bestow upon a restaurant is its ability to transport me beyond my own world and immerse me in cherished memories…enjoying a leisurely lunch in Montmartre or indulging in a late night sip in Montreal. As I sat there last night, savoring a flawlessly crafted White Negroni, I found myself not longing to be anywhere else. This establishment embodies the essence of Cleveland at its finest - a harmonious blend of conviviality and sophistication, devoid of the pretentiousness often encountered elsewhere.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend Pearl Street Wine Market and Cafe. It's a charming establishment where culinary artistry and oenophilic passion intertwine, creating an unforgettable experience for foodies and wine enthusiasts alike. I can't wait to return and indulge in their amazing selections of tinned fish, artisanal hams, and cheeses.

 

I had a wonderful evening with friends old and new and as always we closed the place down with hugs and laughter! 

 

Heres to all of the pleasures of exceptional food, extraordinary wine, and the sweet shared moments that linger in our memories!

 

https://www.pearlstreetcle.com

 

Current and Prospective Members Mix and Mingle at Der Braumeister

By Beth Schriebman-Gehring and Paris Wolfe

LDEI Cleveland Members and Guests at Der Braumeister

On the last Monday in January, the Cleveland Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International welcomed six guests/prospective members to its monthly meeting. All are experienced professionals in the restaurant and hospitality industries, and were invited to submit membership applications by February 1.

During the meeting at Der Braumeister all members and guests introduced themselves and shared their reasons for current or future membership. Consistent themes included a desire for comradery, networking, and education as well as a desire to support other women in the industry and to support the scholarships and grants program.

As part of new business President Beth Davis-Noragan reported that Dame Paris Wolfe, freelance writer, will serve as chair of the Communications Committee.

Then the socializing began over a German-influenced buffet provided by Dame Jenn Wirtz, third-generation owner of this almost 40-year-old establishment.

Der Braumeister’s menu is inspired by Bavarian and European favorites. The buffet table started with charcuterie plates studded with grapes, cheese, speck and plenty of gherkins. The buffet was balanced with two types of cucumber salad; German lox with cucumber, dill, lemon on pumpernickel; sauerkraut balls and potato pancakes with applesauce and sour cream.

While dinner was delightful, dessert stole the show. The sour cherry strudel was flaky and buttery with just the right amount of filling and the most decadent mini cream puffs – made by Jenn’s mom – were topped with a semi-sweet chocolate ganache. Rumor has it some Dames had more than one! #ldeigratitude

Learn more about membership in LDEI.

Reasons to Celebrate

By Elaine T. Cicora

Our annual LDEI meeting has become not only a time to plan for our chapter’s future, but a time to reflect upon the accomplishments of the past year. On that score, the 14 members who gathered at Toast, on Sept. 23, had much reason to feel proud.

At the top of the list, of course, was SummerDine19, which proved to be our most successful fundraiser ever, adding nearly $4,000 to our grants and scholarship fund and fully funding next year’s awards. Other highlights included the successful Dinner in the Dark with Dames fundraiser in June, which raised nearly $3,000 for our grants and scholarship fund; our first-ever $2,000 culinary scholarship award, made to Melissa Holden; and our $2,000 2019 Green Tables grant, made to Cleveland Roots. (If you wish to learn more about Cleveland Roots, be sure to register now for our Nov. 4 meeting, which will be held at the facility!)

In between our business meeting and the delicious dinner prepared for us by Toast chef-owner Jillian Davis, we took time to mark our ongoing commitments — to the chapter, to our mission and to each other — by taking part in our chapter’s first (but not last!) “pinning ceremony,” which saw each member receiving a lovely enamel membership pin. Membership chair Marcie Barker began the ceremony by pinning new member Jenn Wirtz. President Beth Davis-Noragon then introduced each of the other members in attendance, shared some kind words about them, and pinned them as well; fittingly, the first pins went to founding members Crickett Karson and Bev Shaffer. And finally, vice president Britt Horrocks pinned Beth Davis-Noragon. The board looks forward to making this a part of every annual meeting from now on, as a way to welcome new members and reinforce our commitments. (And who doesn’t love a little LDEI bling?!)

We also marked the occasion with our annual chapter photograph, taken by photographer Dame Beth Segal, on Toast’s patio. (You can see it on our Facebook page.) Thanks, as always, Beth, for your artful eye and generous support!

Beth Davis-Noragon closed the meeting by issuing a challenge, asking each member of the chapter to recruit and sponsor at least one new member in the coming year.
A doubling of our numbers would surely be something to celebrate in 2020!

C’mon, Get Happy!

By Elaine T. Cicora
Photos by Elaine T. Cicora and Bob Bohach

A dozen dames and three esteemed guests spent a recent Tuesday afternoon at Lakewood’s Salt+, sharing refreshing drinks and conversation during our 2018 Happy Hour celebration.

The communications committee chose Salt+ as our location for several reasons, not the least of which was the fact that Chef Jill Vedaa, the restaurant’s co-founder, was a 2018 nominee for a James Beard Award. But there was also the compelling menu of creative small plates – including a superlative chicken liver pate and a delightful dish of caramelized baby carrots, ginger-carrot puree and crispy carrots – that left many of us eager to return for more at this casually sophisticated restaurant.

As would be expected from such a diverse group as ours, conversation topics ranged from programming at the Culinary Vegetable Institute (thank you, Marci Barker!) to the state of Cleveland’s independent restaurants (it’s good!). Dame Bev Shaffer also raised a toast to Dame Elaine Cicora, and her recent Grand Prize win in the annual LDEI MFK Fisher Awards for Excellence in Culinary Writing; the award includes roundtrip transportation to the annual LDEI conference, this year in Seattle, where she will accept her prize.

We also enjoyed a chat with the vivacious Jesse Parkison, Salt’s sommelier and co-founder; and received outstanding service from FOH staffer Allison Stavnicky.

From left to right, guest Ann Loparo, Salt's Jesse Parkison, and guest Rebecca Ferlotti.

On behalf of the communications committee, many thanks to all who joined us for cocktails and conversation, as well as to Jill, Jesse and the wonderful staff at Salt+.

We hope to see you at next summer’s Happy Hour!

Leadership at Its Finest – Chapter Meeting at EDWINS

By Elaine T. Cicora
Reporting by Maria Isabella

For eleven chapter members and three guests, our May 14 membership meeting at EDWINS Leadership & Restaurant Institute proved to be an evening of engagement, inspiration and delicious food, prepared and served by EDWINS’ staff of talented trainees.

Founded in 2007 by the charming, and highly accomplished, hospitality professional Brandon Edwin Chrostowski, EDWINS is a nonprofit organization dedicated to providing formerly incarcerated adults with a foundation in the culinary and hospitality industry, while providing the support network necessary for their long-term success. Its mission is three-fold: to teach a skilled and in-demand trade in the culinary arts, to empower willing minds through passion for hospitality management, and to prepare students for a successful transition home. (To learn more about Brandon’s impressive roster of awards and accomplishments, and the talented team of culinary professionals who help operate the restaurant, click here.)

The elegant restaurant on historic Shaker Square opened on Nov. 1, 2013.

During the business portion of the meeting, Dame Maria Isabella presented Brandon with a cookbook stand and 30 cookbooks from her personal collection, including Jacques Pepin’s “La Technique,” for use by the trainees. Afterward, members had an opportunity to order from the unique and totally French menu, which featured such sublime dishes as Guinea hen airline breast, stuffed with morel mushrooms, spring pea puree, Swiss chard and rosemary Madeira sauce; grilled seafood sausage with white fish, scallops, shrimp and pine nuts in a shallot beurre blanc; and seared foie gras, with peach compote, strawberry verjus and pickled strawberries. The meal was leisurely, and members enjoyed a wonderful opportunity for networking and fellowship within the restaurant’s beautiful setting. And clearly, we weren’t the only diners who appreciated the EDWINS experience: Franz Welser-Most, famed conductor of the Cleveland Orchestra, was spotted at the next table!

Near meal’s end, members heard from Brandon, who delivered a short, impromptu talk. He briefly described the institute’s 6-month training program, and discussed the mission and the philosophy behind it. He also referenced his Oscar-nominated film, Knife Skills, which documents the restaurant’s hectic launch (click on the link to watch it). And finally, he noted that the institute is currently raising money to build a butcher shop, to provide additional career training opportunities to the institute’s students. This was followed by a lively Q&A session.

Members finally pulled themselves away from the table around 9:30 p.m., full, happy and impressed, as always, by EDWINS, Brandon, and the world-class program he has established in Cleveland.

Putting on the Ritz

By Jackie Bebenroth
Photos by Jackie Bebenroth

Thinking about the Ritz-Carlton Cleveland may conjure images of immense chandeliers, floral banquettes and stiff martinis at the lobby bar, but at our March 12 membership meeting, we learned that a recent 18-month renovation has brought the iconic destination to a state of modern-day luxury.

For the 12 members in attendance (along with four guests and two spouses), the evening started at the all-new TURN Bar + Kitchen. The crafty cocktail list was full of conversation starters. While the meeting commenced, members sipped on classic favorites with a local twist like The CLE, a refreshing gin and sparkling grapefruit spritzer and the Botanical Garden Gimlet with gin, eucalyptus syrup and orange blossom water. Although lake effect weather was in full force, inside the restaurant we felt warm, welcomed and right at home.

Following the meeting, we were greeted by Rachel Vitalone, the Ritz-Carlton Catering Sales Manager, who served as our tour guide for the evening. She swept us up to the 7th floor, where we discovered a completely re-imagined gathering space called LINKS. It’s an open kitchen designed for social and corporate culinary demos, ideal for team-building exercises, group cooking adventures and creative meeting breaks. The room, with a design that seems plucked from the home of an upscale chef, flows into a more formal meeting area that seats 120 and boasts amazing views of our fair city.

 As expected of the Ritz, intriguing details were considered throughout the seventh floor experience. Gorgeous local art graced the walls in a rotating art gallery that was curated in collaboration with HEDGE gallery. Wandering down the hall, it seemed odd to tour the new fitness center with cocktails in hand, but we were drawn to the gleaming room with high-tech equipment, an interactive smoothie bar and virtual, on-demand workout classes. CORE is open to the public, via membership, as well as to guests of the hotel.

Our tour continued into the bustling catering kitchens, where chefs shuffled room service requests and prepped for upcoming tastings and events. The Ritz-Carlton motto, “Ladies and Gentleman serving Ladies and Gentleman” hung proudly on the wall.

We returned to our seats and enjoyed a delightful dinner from a menu that lived up to its promise: “This is Cleveland, flavor and textures, rich culture and entertainment. We happily partner with local butchers, breweries and farmers to show the essence of our cuisines, heritage and personality. Let us turn our city into something you can taste.

The Power of Pizza in Olmsted Falls

By Elaine T. Cicora
Photos by Barb Abbott and Elaine T. Cicora



In 1994, at the age of 43, Ann Reichle opened a pizza shop. Two years ago in May, she finally paid off a quarter-million dollar debt and started to turn a profit.

"It's a difficult business," the energetic entrepreneur told members of the Cleveland chapter at our Jan. 22 meeting. "But I love it."

In the years between 1994 and 2016, Ann and her family faced both challenges and accomplishments. Her business, Angelina's Pizza, brought home first place in a state-wide pizza competition in 1996, just two years after opening. (Ann's "Specialty Pizza" was the winning pie, a tender crust topped with meatballs, mushrooms, onions and sausage.) She also launched Angelina's locations in North Ridgeville and Elyria, started a successful catering operation, and took over a next-door coffee shop, "on a whim." Warm and welcoming, the Village Bean Cafe has been operating under Ann's direction since 2014, and was the site of our Monday night meeting. The cafe has also grown into a community gathering place, hosting book signings, meetings, and concerts.

But along the way, there were struggles too, including limited capital, a lack of experience, and a devastating lawsuit.

Through it all, Ann told us she never doubted her career path. "My goal has always been to be part of the fabric of this wonderful community," she said of the town she clearly adores. "I'm very supportive of our entire food community, and I don't consider other restaurants in town to be my competition. I've been covered in grease my whole life, first as a mechanic – and then I opened a pizza shop! It's a tough business, but you just have to keep going."

Clearly, Ann's perseverance paid off. In fact, things are going well enough these days that she recently purchased property at the opposite end of town, where she plans to build an 80- to 100-seat restaurant. "There are no chains in Olmsted Falls," she explained, adding that the town's restaurants strive to keep it that way. "We are all a little different, and it all works," she said.

Of course, inspirational stories like Ann's are known to work up an appetite, and the spread Ann laid out for us after her talk was a delicious representation of her craft. Among the treats were four pizzas, including her popular Breakfast Pizza with scrambled eggs and bacon, which she serves at the cafe; a salad bar with a selection of greens, vegetables, and charcuterie, along with grilled chicken breast or sliced portabellas for toppings; a lovely cheese and meat platter; an Ancient Grains Salad and a Tri-Color Couscous Salad; and a dessert tray.

Altogether, the evening was a worthy reminder of the power of female entrepreneurship – and the power of pizza too.

Our next meeting takes place in March at the downtown Cleveland Ritz-Carlton. Watch our website and Facebook page for details.

Reception for the Les Dames d’Escoffier International Board

By Elaine T. Cicora / Edited by Shara Bohach
Photos by Elaine T. Cicora, Hayley Matson-Mathes, and Bob Bohach

The weather was perfect, the food was fabulous, and the fellowship was sincere at the reception for the LDEI Board members that our chapter held on Saturday, July 15, 2017, at Coquette Patisserie. Host and owner Dame Britt-Marie Culey outdid herself, with a three-course, alfresco buffet dinner that kicked off with raw oysters, pâté, rillettes and more, moved on to a variety of savory pastries and cheeses, and concluded with an array of sweets including her rightfully famous macarons.

With the LDEI Board members in town for their annual meeting, the Cleveland chapter was pleased to help them wind up their week with a party. Representing the LDEI Board were president Stacy Zeigler; first vice president Hayley Jo Matson-Mathes; second vice president Bev Shaffer; third vice president Deborah Mintcheff; secretary Ann Stratte; treasurer Deb Orrill; board liasons Kathy Gold and Julie Chernoff; immediate past-president Maria Gomez-Laurens; and executive director Greg Jewell.

Representing our chapter were Shara Bohach, Elaine Cicora, Crickett Karson, Beth Davis-Noragon, Britt-Marie Culey, and co-presidents Cynthia Eakin and Marty Nagele. Doing double duty as both second vice president of the International Board and a founding member of the Cleveland chapter was Dame Bev Shaffer. And spouses Eric Eakin, Brad Albing and Bob Bohach added some gusto to our gathering.

Board members were provided with Cleveland-themed goody bags (aka reusable Heinen’s shopping bags) filled with items donated by our members: Ohio maple syrup; Lilly Handmade Chocolates; Storehouse Tea; Bertman Original Mustard; “I liked Cleveland before it was cool” koozies; copies of Edible Cleveland and the Scene; an array of maps and guides from Destination Cleveland; and flyers for SummerDine.

Lubricated by French 75s and Pimm’s Cups on the patio, conversation was lively, as befitting a group of food and hospitality pros who hailed from as far away as Honolulu and as nearby as Shaker Heights. Seated at shaded picnic tables, this co-mingled group of chefs; culinary consultants; sales, marketing and PR pros; cookbook editors; dining editors; and food writers touched on topics ranging from the virtues of Maine blueberries to the state of the Chicago dining scene, and from the proper way to drink mescal to the quality of West Coast oysters. By the end of the evening, many new friendships had been forged and valuable contacts made. And in the process, our chapter had a chance to show off our city to a suitably impressed group of colleagues.

Les Dames D’Escoffier Cleveland Chapter at Astoria Café and Market

By Elaine T. Cicora
Photos by Elaine T. Cicora

More than a dozen members of our chapter met at Astoria Café and Market in the Gordon Square Arts District on April 4, 2017, for our bi-monthly business meeting, a delicious buffet dinner, and a tour of the family owned and operated business.

Our host and guide was Lee Daniels, son of co-owner Steve Daniels and nephew of co-owner George Kantzios. Together, Steve and George also operate Agora Foods International, a wholesale import business, founded in 2008. The partners relocated Agora from Ohio City to Detroit Avenue in 2014, after completing extensive remodeling on the new space. While Agora is only nine years old, the family has been part of Cleveland’s food and specialty foods industry for over 65 years and imports directly from Greece, Italy, France, and other regions throughout the Mediterranean. Agora supplies its imported foods to accounts as nearby as Heinen’s and as far away as Salt Lake City, Lee told us.

Astoria, the restaurant and retail arm of the family operation, opened in the same building in December 2016. A bright, airy and beautifully renovated space, Astoria occupies about 5,000 square feet of the 24,000-square-foot building, and includes a 60-seat café, full bar, market and deli, with an emphasis on Mediterranean foods. A paved 60-car parking lot opened around the corner, on West 55th Street, in January.

As the third generation to work in the family business, which includes ties to Euro USA and Mediterranean Imports at the West Side Market, Lee proved to be both a knowledgeable guide and a gracious host. Following a wonderful buffet dinner that included such standouts as chickpea soup, pita and hummus, two styles of spanakopita, three types of thin-crusted pizza (margherita, prosciutto and arugula, and mushroom and artichoke), and a bountiful selection of fine imported cheeses and charcuterie, Lee led our group through the wholesale warehouse and its coolers, where we ooh-ed and ahh-ed over a grand collection of cheeses, meats, olives, phyllo dough, olive oils, roasted vegetables, grains, pastas and other imported food products.

Many of the imported products are available for purchase in the deli, where we found a remarkable assortment of aged, brined, bloomy rind, blue, semi-soft, semi-hard, hard and surfaced ripened cheeses. The meat counter also impressed with its abundance of products: linguica, jamon serrano, chorizo, Italian dried salume, and bresaola made from Wagyu beef, among them. And to drink, an entire wall’s worth of wine is at the ready.

By evening’s end, many of us had not only learned more about our city’s vibrant food industry, but had added a new place to our “must shop” and “must eat” lists. Thank you to Lee, Steve, George and everyone at Astoria Market and Café, for hosting such an informative and enjoyable evening.

The deli case is full of temptations
at Astoria Cafe and Market

Astoria partner and host George Kantzios

Artisanal pizzas starred on the dinner buffet

A selection of imported salume
sourced from the Market deli

Les Dames D’Escoffier Cleveland Chapter at Bomba Tacos & Rum

By Elaine T. Cicora / Photos by Elaine T. Cicora

Never let it be said that our Cleveland Dames don’t know how to have fun. Thanks to Dame Jess Lindawan, director of marketing for Paladar Restaurant Group, we had a wonderful opportunity to dine, drink, learn, laugh and network during our November meeting at Bomba Tacos & Rum, a friendly, chef-driven restaurant in Rocky River featuring a lively menu inspired by Cuban, Salvadoran, Peruvian and other Latin-American cuisines.

One of the ways Bomba, a sister operation to Woodmere-based Paladar, distinguishes itself from other taco spots, we learned, is by its extensive collection of 75 premium rums and craft cocktails. And to help us understand more about this delightful spirit, we were joined by Melisa Baringer, sales associate for Cleveland’s own Portside Distillery.

We learned that Portside is an artisan distillery and craft brewery, and holds the distinction of being the first distillery to open in Cleveland since Prohibition. “Everything is small batch, hand bottled, and hand labeled, and the results are totally worth it!” said Melisa.

To drive home her assertion, Melisa brought with her four of the distillery’s award-winning rums for sampling. They included:

• Silver Rum: Distilled from 100 percent cane sugar in a homemade copper pot still, we learned that this “New World” rum is Portside’s most popular, described as “incredibly smooth, with lingering full-bodied and fruity esters [that] will remind you why rum was the most popular spirit upon the founding of our country.”
• Vanilla Maple Rum: A blend of pure Northeastern Ohio maple syrup and Madagascar vanilla bean, this slightly sweet rum has won “Best of Category” honors among flavored rums at the American Distillers Institute Competition, making it perfect served neat or blended in a favorite cocktail.
• Spiced Rum: Infused with a special blend of spices, raisins and a touch of vanilla for a spicy finish, this 100-proof product is smooth and easy sipping. No surprise to discover it’s a Bronze Medal winner from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
• Christmas Spirit Rum: A blend of ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, and honey give this seasonal special its flavor. Slightly sweet and spicy, this rum has been described as “tasting like Christmas morning.” Portside only distills it once a year; so, you know, get yours while supplies last!

We were also treated to two fantastic specialty cocktails made with Portside products: The Spiced Cranberry Ginger Mojito, made with Spiced Rum, lime, mint, cranberry and ginger beer; and the Spiced Hard Cider Sangria, featuring Silver Rum, hard cider, spiced simple syrup and nutmeg.

We enjoyed our cocktails with a marvelous spread of tasty treats from Bomba’s kitchen, starting with freshly made guacamole garnished with pepitas and chipotle honey, and accompanied by an assortment of light, crisp corn, plantain, yucca and Malanga chips, made daily, in house.

Then it was on to a delicious buffet of mushroom empanadas, jerk-chicken skewers and a variety of soft tacos that included charred kale and corn, Rio-style chicken, braised beef and blackened fish.

As a sweet ending, we enjoyed churros and chocolate sauce.

Meantime, a vivacious group of nearly 30 Dames and their guests took full advantage of the opportunity to network, forge new business and personal relationships, and learn about each others’ roles in the food/drink/hospitality community.

Thank you to Jess, Bomba and Portside Distillery for hosting such a fun-filled, educational and relevant meeting.

Dame du Jour: Britt-Marie Culey

By Maria Isabella

Interview by
Paula Hershman
 
What does a newly minted pre-med graduate who’s just starting out in her career as a medical professional do when her passion suddenly runs dry? In Britt’s case, she turns to her other unfulfilled passion instead: baking. So she ran with it—and has never looked back since.

Growing up in Connecticut, Britt admits food was a big part of her life. “My Swedish mother always prepared home-cooked meals,” she says. “Nothing was out of a box. She created everything from scratch. Chocolate roll cakes. Butter cream frostings. Even meringues.”

She loved helping her mom. So when Britt needed a part-time job during high school, she chose to work at a bakery. All through college, she worked in a bagel shop. And all through culinary school, she worked in a coffee shop where she created all their pastries. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves.

When Britt realized medicine was not for her, she decided to enroll in the Western Culinary Institute (now known as Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts) in Portland, Oregon. After obtaining her associate’s degree in culinary arts, she left for the South of France to work at Le Petit Prince, a traditional French pastry shop.

“My only days off were Sundays,” explains Britt. “There was always a big farmers’ market in the center of town with an enormous paella, in the largest paella pan I have ever seen. I loved it so much it would feed me for three days!”

After returning to the States, she landed a job at Financier, another French pastry shop, this time in Manhattan. Serendipity eventually brought her and her husband, Shane, to Cleveland where she opened up her own French bakery, Coquette Pâttisserie.

Has it been worth it? In Britt’s own words, she says, “I’m so proud I actually took the step to change careers. Now I get to do what I love. I work, shop, and bake all day. I come home and feed my children. Then I sit down with a glass of wine. I even dream about food! It’s my life.”

When not working or eating at her favorite restaurant (she loves #3 at Superior Pho), she enjoys entertaining at home.

“We like to entertain casually with close friends, great food, drinks, and a themed spread with small pickings,” says Britt. “Preferably in our backyard with the fire pit and bar set up.”

As for what she likes best about being a member of LDEI, Britt says, “I enjoy being with all the ladies. I really look forward to our meetings and getting to know other interesting women in the industry.”

Learn more about Britt as she shares some fun and interesting insights about herself.

Which one chef (living or deceased) would you want to invite over for dinner and what would you serve? Julia Child. I would get her drunk on wine and serve her Beef Bourguignon.

What is your favorite cookbook? Larousse Gastronomique.

What’s your favorite comfort food? Chicken noodle soup. It’s hearty and full of flavor, starting with a full free-range chicken.

Any favorite indulgences? Alcohol, wine, beer, and Champagne. I sell all of these at my pâtisserie. But my all-time favorite to the core is Champagne!

Do you have a signature dish? Risotto.

What’s your go-to, quick-and-easy dinner? Stir-fry whatever I have in the fridge, with rice or pasta.

What’s your favorite dessert to prepare? Mousses. A compilation of crunchy, chewy, any-flavor profile.

What’s the biggest cooking mistake you’ve ever made? Let’s just say I’m not allowed to deep fry anything. My husband is in charge of that. He’s from Louisiana.

Name 3 kitchen gadgets you can’t live without. Blowtorch, bench scraper, and rubber spatula.

What would people be surprised to find in your kitchen? Caviar in a tube. It’s an alternative to salt. You can put it on everything!

Dame du Jour: Carmella Fragassi

By Maria Isabella

With a degree from Heidelberg University and plenty of grit, Carmella enjoyed a very fulfilling, action-packed career in law enforcement. And after decades of faithful, dedicated service, she finally retired.

But did she sail away to paradise to spend her time leisurely drinking margaritas poolside at a retirement home in Florida? Far from it. She embarked on her own Act 2 and opened a restaurant—more accurately, a trattoria, which she named La Campagna (Italian for “the countryside”). That was 24 years ago.

Today, Carmella is enjoying well-earned success as one of Cleveland’s most respected chefs. She admits it’s all derived from the pleasures she enjoyed growing up in an extremely tight-knit Italian family.

“Both of my grandmothers were from the same hometown in Italy,” explains Carmella. “They cooked the same seasonal meals where food was simply prepared with the freshest ingredients available.”
She goes on to add, “Everyone got together to help cook for the holidays. Food and wine went hand in hand at both my grandparents’ homes. Then my mother carried on those same traditions with her own children.”

When asked which food always reminds her of home, Carmella quickly responds, “Homemade cecatelli, better known to most as cavatelli.”

Even after all that she’s accomplished, Carmella says her proudest moments involve teaching people an old recipe she remembers from childhood. “The delight on their face is more than gratifying,” she says. “I love it when a customer gets excited about a meal that brings back memories for them.”

When asked to describe the best food or wine she’s ever had, Carmella admits it’s hard to pinpoint just one. “It was probably that most delicious leg of lamb we had in Basliacata. Wait. Maybe it was the puréed fava beans with shaved octopus we had in Manfredonia. Or better yet, maybe it was the fried zucchini blossoms and borage in Orsara di Puglia. No, wait. Perhaps it was the pizza we had in Foggia that was made with pane cotto (bread and arugula placed on a pizza and cooked in a wood-fired oven). Or maybe it was…” she trails off wistfully.

But when asked what was the most unusual thing she’s ever eaten, Carmella doesn’t hesitate for a second. “Raw razor clams from the Adriatic Sea,” she responds with a smile.

As for which chef, living or deceased, she would want to invite over for dinner, she says that’s a tough question. “There are several,” says Carmella. “Marcella Hazen, Lidia Bastianich, and Mary Ann Esposito, to start with. Of course, there are also a few others as well. I would feed them some of the traditional peasant meals from Puglia, including “burnt wheat” orecchiette pasta with dandelion greens, focaccia with potatoes and rosemary, vegetable stew Orsara di Puglia style, and purée of white fava beans with shrimp. Then some homemade biscotti for dessert.”

As a member of LDEI, Carmella says she enjoys networking with others in the business the most.

Learn more about Carmella as she shares some fun and interesting insights about herself.

Describe your perfect meal. Food gathered from the garden and a piece of rosemary-lemon chicken on the spit with a nice glass of red wine.

What’s your favorite comfort food? Homemade pizza.

Any favorite indulgences? A good cup of coffee.

What’s your favorite snack? Salt and vinegar chips.

Do you have a signature dish? Eggplant Parmesan.

What’s your go-to, quick-and-easy dinner? Onion and egg soup with crusty bread and salad.

What’s your favorite dessert to prepare? Homemade canned peaches soaked in red wine.

What’s one ingredient you can’t live without? Olive oil.

Name 3 things that are always in your refrigerator. Parsley, basil, and rosemary.

Name 3 kitchen gadgets you can’t live without. Pasta crimper, hacksaw, and zester.

Rum and Beer Tasting at Portside Distillery and Dinner at The Willeyville

By Shara Bohach | Photos by Beth Segal

On Monday, January 12, Cleveland Dames and guests were the lucky first group to enjoy a tour and tasting at the new Portside Distillery on the Flats East Bank. A craft beer and rum distillery, Portside opened this past year and has its grand opening tonight, Thursday, January 15, 2015.

Lauren McPherson took us on a tour of the distillery. She noted that the building had some history, once used to manufacture organ pipes and later for sanitation, before they took it over in 2011. Located next to the Port of Cleveland, they adopted a nautical theme in the decor, complete with lighthouse tap handles. We gathered around their one-of-a-kind copper-pot still locally-made in Tremont, learning that the double diamond barrels at the top remove impurities at the beginning of the three to four week distilling process.













They make five different styles of rum, using products from The West Side Market to infuse flavors: Silver Rum, Hopped Rum, Vanilla Maple Rum (pure Geauga County maple syrup and Madagascar vanilla beans), Spiced Rum, and Christmas Spirit (made just once a year). They're also aging barrels of rum, which will be ready in three years. Save the date!













Dan Malz, one of the founders, owners, and chief brewer then took us on a tour of the brewery. They cleverly stack tanks to make the most use of their limited space. Upper and lower tanks each brew a different lager or ale. We were then led back to the tasting room to sample. Each Dame was given a choice of four rums, beers or a combination of both. With five rums and twelve craft beers on tap, there was much to choose from. One of the crowd favorites was the Yule Shoot Your Rye Out winter warmer (named / punned after the line in A Christmas Story), which despite its ABV of 8.2%, was not too heavy and bursted with cinnamon flavor.













We then walked less than a block, on this very chilly, very windy night, to The Willeyville Restaurant, owned by Chris and Krista DiLisi. Dames enjoyed a wonderful three-course dinner of Salad or Vegetable Minestrone, Chicken Florentine or Vegan Ramen, and an assorted sampling of cream puffs and other decadent bite-sized desserts. Lively conversations and laughter surrounded the table and indeed, everyone had a warm time on a chilly night.
 

Vegan Cooking at Frickaccio's: Vegan, Gluten-Free, Certified Organic… I'm Just Sayin'!

By Shara Bohach

What do diatomaceous earth and fish bladders have in common? You'd have to have attended Monday night's meeting at Frickaccio's in Fairview Park to know!

Photo by Gloria Kemer

Frickaccio's Owner, Dame Terry Frick and Chef Todd Rothman prepared a fantastic evening for lucky Cleveland Dames, full of demonstrations and tips for healthy and delicious vegan cooking, served with vegan wine.

Vegan wine? Isn't all wine vegan? Actually, no it is not. Dame Maggie Harrison educated us on the various methods used to fine (or filter and clarify) wines, which include straining it through dried egg whites or, less commonly, dehydrated fish bladder. Vegan wines use an alternate method. When seeking out vegan or vegetarian wines, one should look for un-fined wines, however, this is not something one can simply find on the label. Maggie noted Barnivore.com as a terrific resource for vegan wine, beer and liquor.

Oh, and if you are looking for gluten-free wines, seek out unoaked varietals. Oak barrel produced wines use wheat paste.

Dinner consisted of an abundant progressive tasting menu, balancing between lighter and heartier dishes, with explanations of flavors, ingredients, and processes along the way. Dames tried various gluten-free and vegan breads and spreads, an organic veggie pizza bagel, Chef Todd's vegan version of a crab cake (made with shredded hearts of palm), portobello bisque, strawberry / hazelnut salad, vegan paprikash, and an almond milk "ice cream" and flourless chocolate cake.

At the conclusion of dinner, Terry demonstrated making fresh almond milk in the Vitamix.

She then took us on a tour of the new facility and kitchen, and introduced us to Helga, her workhorse of a mixer! Frickaccio's does all of its baking on-site and sends product out to its West Side Market store and retailers, including Heinen's, whom she cites as a terrific partner. Frickaccio's offers around 10 varieties of certified-organic pizza dough balls, including gluten-free They are also trying something new with the new location – an eat-in cafe. Chef Todd looks to introduce creative vegan fare to the cafe-style menu.

Thank you, Frickaccio's, for hosting such an interesting, informative, and tasty evening!

Dame du Jour: Joan Pistone

by Maria Isabella

How strong is the bond of family? Stronger than anything else in this world—and Joan Pistone should know.

You see, Joan grew up in an extremely close-knit Italian family. In fact, her earliest memory was when she was only three years old, helping her mom and two sisters roll meatballs. “I remember rolling big ones for our Sunday dinner,” says Joan, smiling, “and tiny ones for baked rigatoni with hard-boiled eggs for Sunday picnics and wedding soup.”

She goes on to say, “We had many Sunday dinners at my grandparents’ house under the grapevines in their backyard with all of my aunts, uncles, and cousins. This went on every Sunday until they passed away.”

When Joan turned 13, she immediately became immersed in her family’s restaurant business, which included such notable eateries as Inner Lobby Coffee Shop and Lincoln Inn—both in downtown Cleveland.

Joan helped out during all her school breaks and every summer until she graduated from high school. Afterwards, she moved up to front-of-the-house manager.

“I was very familiar with how a restaurant operated, and I loved being around our employees and interacting with customers,” she says.

Eight years later, Joan decided to accept a position at the 5-star South Seas Island Resort on Captiva Island, Florida. She managed their $4 million restaurant for four years before being lured away by Beaver Run Ski Resort in Breckenridge, Colorado. There, she managed their beverage department overseeing the main lodge plus five bars.

Suddenly, one year later, Joan had a decision to make. A big decision. Would she keep living the dream…or move back home to help her parents with their restaurant business? For Joan, the decision was an easy one.

Eventually, Joan and her brother bought out their father’s partners. Today, they co-own the highly successful J. Pistone Market and Gathering Place in Shaker Heights together.

“I come from a family where food was always such an important part of our lives, and still is!” says Joan.

When Joan entertains, it’s usually very casual. “I’m not a fabulous cook, but I know my way around a kitchen quite well,” she says. “We have family dinners every Sunday. It usually starts with apps, good wine, and cocktails. I like to make the whole dinner—always with some type of pasta! And since I’m not great at making dessert, I usually ask someone to bring that. Or else I’ll buy a good ice cream and make a homemade sauce. Everyone loves when I do that.”

Joan’s perfect meal? A whole roasted chicken with fresh herbs and lemon, plus a side of porcini mushroom risotto.

Her favorite restaurant? “I don’t really have one,” says Joan. “There are so many great restaurants in Cleveland, but I rarely go out to eat. However, when I do, I tend to enjoy Moxie. Jonathan (Bennett) does a great job.”

The best food she’s had while traveling? “The resort I worked at in Florida had a young executive chef, only 25 years old and a CIA grad. His name was Mike Clark. He was really the person who opened my eyes to the world of gourmet food. I can still taste his fresh grouper with a very light marinara sauce and risotto. I also never ate stone crabs that tasted so good before!”

As for how she first heard of LDEI, Joan says she was invited by Crickett Karson and Laura Taxel to attend the very first meeting. In fact, Joan was a founding member. “I believe we needed 13 members to form a chapter, and we did!”

What does she enjoy most about being an LDEI member? “Meeting so many different women in so many different aspects of the hospitality business. From writers and photographers, to chefs and wine experts, the group is ever-changing and everyone has something to offer. Our meetings are productive, and we cover some very interesting topics. I also enjoy that we are able to raise money that profits a needed organization.”

Learn more about Joan as she shares some fun and interesting insights about herself.

What is the most unusual thing you’ve ever eaten? Where to begin?! Rocky Mountain oysters (the testicles of bull calves), pig’s feet, and my mother always made tripe.

Which one chef would you want to invite over for dinner and what would you serve? I would invite Mike Clark (the young chef from Florida), and I would want us to cook together. We’d probably make pasta and seafood.

What is your favorite cookbook? The Classic Italian Cook Book by Marcella Hazen and The Silver Palate Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. I still refer to both books when cooking.

What’s your favorite comfort food? Spaghetti with meatballs, ricotta salata, and fresh basil.

What’s your favorite snack? Cashews with mini chocolate morsels.

Do you have a signature dish? I do tend to make a great chicken dish with figs and bacon.

What’s one ingredient you can’t live without? Garlic.

Name 3 things that are always in your refrigerator. Jams, mustards, and cheese.

Name 3 kitchen gadgets you can’t live without. Mini chopper, Vitamix, and thermometer.

What would people be surprised to find in your kitchen pantry? Box cake mixes. I do like to make a lemon pound cake from a Duncan Hines cake mix with Jell-O lemon pudding.

The Globe / Cleveland Convention Center

By Maria Isabella | Photos by Shara Bohach

The Dames of Cleveland enjoyed their much-anticipated July meeting at two of Downtown Cleveland’s most exciting and premier locations: the new Cleveland Convention Center and the even-newer Urban Farmer steakhouse restaurant.

Eighteen Dames first gathered at the convention center for a private and fascinating tour led by Levy Restaurants’ Executive Chef Matt Del Regno (who just happens to be featured in fellow Dame Maria Isabella’s cookbook, In the Kitchen with Cleveland’s Favorite Chefs). The show rooms were impressive, and the magnitude of the entire space even more so.

Matt also seamlessly led everyone through the connected and much-praised Global Center for Health Innovation (or “the Globe” as it’s affectionately called)— the only facility in the world that displays the future of health and health care.



But the grand finale beat all as Matt capped the tour with a behind-the-scenes look at his underground, state-of-the-art service kitchen. Everyone’s envy was palpable as Matt explained each piece of equipment and the thought process behind its selection. His end-of-tour offering of several amazing amuse bouches caused the last round of ooohs and aaahs.



Afterwards, the group strolled a few blocks over to Urban Farmer and wound up the evening with a wonderful meal culled from locally grown and sourced ingredients, including goat cheese from fellow Dame Jean Mackenzie and her Mackenzie Creamery.

Special thanks and heartfelt appreciation to Dame Marty Nagele for coordinating this remarkable event!

Keeping Kosher – The intricacies of kosher food rules

By Jean Mackenzie

Ten Dames were in attendance for our March 31st meeting that was held at Café 56 Express in Beachwood, Ohio. Our speaker was Lana Bernstein, a kosher caterer from Columbus, Ohio and the 2013 LDEI Legacy Award Winner in the culinary category.

Carol Hacker led a brief business meeting followed by our speaker, Lana Bernstein, who gave an extremely interesting and often times entertaining talk on “Keeping Kosher”. We learned about some of the laws that govern keeping kosher such as not eating meat and dairy at the same meal. This law carries the saying, “Don’t cook the kid in the mother’s milk”. We also learned that all meat must be from animals that have cloven hooves and chew their cud, which would include beef cattle and goats; all fish must have scales, so no catfish or lobster (a great sigh went up in the room upon learning that you couldn’t eat lobster!); all fowl must be domestic, such as chickens but ostrich are not included in this group, and it may not be a bird of prey. You may enjoy having meat and fish during the same meal but they must be served on separate plates. Kosher wine must be boiled before bottling and beer may not be consumed during Passover.

We learned that the term “parve” means neutral and refers to anything that is not meat or dairy. For example, eggs, fruits and vegetables are parve. Parve dishes can be eaten with both meat and milk dishes.

As Lana lectured, we were served a delicious four-course dinner by the staff at Café 56 Express. Our first course included humus, bagels, kohlrabi coleslaw, “fake” (vegan) chopped liver, an Israeli salad and gefilte fish served with beets, carrots and horseradish. The salad contained no lettuce, supporting the rule of eating no bugs. To maintain kosher, each lettuce leaf would have to be thoroughly examined to insure that there are no bugs.

For our second course, a soup course, Lana served matzo ball soup. She explained that to make the matzo balls, the wheat and water are mixed and kneaded for exactly 18 minutes. It is believed that if the mixture is kneaded longer that 18 minutes, the wheat will begin to ferment. The soup was a beautiful clear broth made with onions and vegetables. The matzo balls seemed to float in the bowl.  Simply delicious!

The third course consisted of two dishes, kugel and cholent. Kugel is typically a sweet baked pudding or casserole that is made with pasta noodles or potatoes. There were lots of oohs! and ahhs! around the table as each of us tasted Lana’s kugel dish! This could easily have been dessert! We then had cholent, which is an extremely hardy dish made with beef, barley, beans, onions and spices.

Our fourth and final course was dessert, which brings with it the challenge that no dairy products may be used. This means cream cheese, ricotta, ice cream, etc. Lana is not only a wonderful chef, she is a magician as well! She created the most delicious, non-dairy, cheesecake you can imagine! It was light and creamy and topped with fresh sliced strawberries. The perfect ending to a very interesting and delicious dinner!